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Saga 5

Tulum - SAGA 5 - Journal 18

Tulum - SAGA 5 - Journal 18

Tulum is where all the trophy wives from Lifetime Fitness go for vacation. There are Instagram models all over that have 1%er spouses or parents. Cancun is old news. That's where all the regular people go. The beautiful people go to Tulum.

As Klair said in Schitt's Creek:

Klair: "If you're not going to Tulum, then like where the hell are you even going?"
Alexis: So where is she going?
Klair: Ugh, god. Cabo.
Alexis: Oh my god, poor thing.

European trust fund executives take wives and mistresses half their age here. Are there families? Sure, but they're not your middle-class suburban types. These folks are spending more time with their kids here than they have all year. Normally the kids are at private boarding schools, in Ivy League universities, or being raised by nannies while mom and dad power couples are busy running companies.

The road signs are in English again. The advertisements too. In fact, you'll see the letters much bigger in English on signs that say "LOTS FOR SALE" or "MASSAGE PARLOR."

I look at the signs along the road that advertise for resorts and it almost makes me gag. 

"Get in touch with the Earth."

"Find perfection."

"Find your spiritual oasis."

"A revered retreat."

"Find ultimate relaxation in a luxurious space without precedents."

These suck-up ads are perfect for the neo-spiritual looking to unload tens of thousands into a 2-week visit. Go ANYWHERE in Mexico 10 miles out and you'll find nothing like this.

The Tulum ruins are the most commercialized ruins I've been at yet.

An area over twice the size of the ruins themselves is full of restaurants, gift shops, pharmacies selling boner pills, and even some rides. There are local folks dressed in traditional Maya garb for photos. Throngs of tourist guides harass anyone not being escorted by one. 

Tulum grew fast. Before 2008, there wasn't even a municipality here. The city blew up in size and has built over 70 hotels in a span of about a decade. The locals are recoiling in horror at the change in their city. They either lean in and join the industry or they leave. There isn't even an airport here yet. People have had to fly into Cancun and get bussed here. The current president has placed emphasis on a railroad, which is being constructed down the Caribbean coast from Cancun called "Tren Maya." I saw it flanking the highway along the coast on my way south. There have been plans for an airport but nothing concrete yet. Some say it's an effort to slow the grow.

The Archaeological Zone of Tulum was amazing. It was all along the Caribbean coast and every major feature was stanchioned off from tourists. It was interesting seeing that compared to other Maya sites and ruins I've been to. Some allow you to climb right up the buildings. Tulum was VERY roped off. People have been respecting it, however, so it looks like Tulum is going to keep blowing up and the ruins will still be saved from the growing pains. Mexico is doing a good job of protecting it and milking it for the anthro-tourist dollars. Exactly as it should be, in my opinion. 

I powered off my phone # and parked it with a "phone number parking" company. I'll still be able to receive texts when I need to, such as when I'm logging into banks for 2-factor authentication, but other than that it's going to be pretty much disabled. I'll be flying blind without any data for the next few days until I get situated in Belize, which is coming soon. Very, very soon.

After 6 months, the end of Saga 5.

-JT
4/29/2023